Cut up ABS piping and put em onto my newly acquired wheels. my r/c has more lip than my real car *weeps*
next up is to track down a bunch of parts that apparently blew off the poor thing during one of its violent encounters with walls, parking stumps and such.  then to paint the body so that it actually resembles an NSX GT like it's supposed to.
then.. a drift conversion with Square counter drift pulley set and a rigid rear axle, and a one way front diff.  cs drift here i come.

 
Put in a bit of work, but did it the lazy way as I didn't feel like bothering with the axle to pull the arms off the rear hub.  Was able to burn out 7 bushings in total in an hour and a half, though I did successfully set my ball joint boot on fire a few times, yeesh. 

LCA now has new bushings since i was able to just burn out everything, while everything else, like the traction rods, the upper control arm, and the one bushing on the hub that the traction rod bolts to, all require cutting to get the sleeves out.

 
Finally got around to bolting my front suspension up together with polyurethane pressed into all 4 arms, though my lower control arm ball joints are both done for, for damn sure, but they'll have to do for now as I'm completely broke atm.

Then, my attention turned toward the front sways and endlink.  I always thought the stock endlinks were dangerously thin for my enormous daizen sways. 

Also, in a ghetto ghetto experiment, I laid my LCA on the ground and raised up the ball joint end of the LCA 3 inches to simulate a 3" drop.  This moved the bracket on the LCA that the endlink bolts to up 1.5" up.  This means that the end of the sway bar, where the endlink attaches, raises up 1.5" under compression, thus throwing the angle of the sway bar off. 

To fix this problem and the problem of the toothpick-ness, and because we have less aftermarket support than a buick, I've decided to make my own.

Stock Endlink - $62 per endlink
My ghetto isht - $40 per pair.

Though, I can't say that this is ideal for street cars since these spherical rod ends tend to require periodical lubrication and get dirty pretty easily.

I do have to space it out a bit to make it straighter, but I think it should work... hard to say as I won't be able to drive this pos anytime soon.
 
definitely a messy process, but damn it's fun.


This would be one of my front uca's, which are probably the easiest ones on the car to burn out since all that needs to be done is a bit of pyro-ness and a few hits w/ a hammer/mallet for the bushings to fall out.  front lca's have been burned out up front, buuuuut cleaning out the sleeves is proving to be a major pita, even w/ my dremel and wire brush bit.  haven't even touched the rear suspension arms yet..... *sigh*

Still need to acquire:
solid subframe bushings
stock rear diff bushing/cushion
235/40/18's for my rear rp03's.

still need to do:
finish front lca's, burn out and install bushings for the rear uca's and lca
install the isht that I stil need to acquire
shave the passenger side rear fender a bit more
get my newly acquired used yokohama avs 215/40 tires on my 350z spares
Man, i haven't done isht..